10.30.2006
of glasses and whistles
The pressure cooker is a marvelous invention, enabling the preparation of food that tastes as though it took a long time to cook, when it actually did not. This is why it's one of the secret weapons in Indian cuisine. (How else could one have time to make something starting with hard chickpeas or lentils?) With so many single parents and otherwise-busy people in the west, why aren't we all using them?
According to one of the books I have on the subject, the pressure cooker had a spike of popularity in the United States in the 1940s among the Rosie The Riveter demographic, but with the rise in popularity of frozen and dehydrated foods (think "TV Dinners and gelatin") their use declined.
That they had acquired a reputation for asploding helped, of course. While industrial frozen & dehydrated foods may not have the best taste, they also won't make a spectacular mess all over your ceiling if you leave them unattended. But, to be fair, modern pressure cookers won't do that either -- thanks to decades of refinement of the concept in Europe.
The old "jiggle-top" valves have been supplanted by a spring-valve mechanism. You can see an example in the picture above. The little knob on the top of the lid rises with the pressure: if you can see one red line, the internal pressure is 8 PSI above the ambient pressure. If you can see two red lines, it's at 15 PSI. My pressure cooker can maintain either of these pressure points more-or-less constantly, without much loss of water, and almost silently for extended periods of time -- provided that you turn the burner down on the stove once you've reached your target pressure. If you do leave it unattended, multiple levels of safety mechanisms will kick in, safely venting pressure in a downward direction.
So my new toy has a lot of geek appeal: no shock there. I'm enjoying cooking: now that's a new thing. I've even taken a fancy to the idea of learning to cook Indian food. On the advice of a new co-worker, I decided to start simple by getting some pre-mixed spice packets from a local Indian grocer. They even have pressure-cooker instructions right on the back, he said.
This is where the story takes a sinister turn.
I stepped into the little store on 17th & P and began a long, slow perusal of the items on the shelves. The first brand of spice-packets had instructions that said, at one point, "add 3 glasses of water".
Ok, exactly how much water is that? I asked the grocer; she didn't know. She said she never made that particular brand. Ok, maybe that brand had badly-translated instructions, so I picked up another brand and was relieved to see quantities of water given in cups.
But wait, what's this? "Let cook for 3 whistles." That's the most interesting unit of time I've ever heard. I was able to infer from the grocer's explanation that the pressure cookers in India don't use the newer spring-valve mechanisms, but instead rely on the old weighted valves which periodically let off steam as the pressure rises past some threshold.
But how often does it whistle? How many minutes between whistles? She didn't know.
That's ok, I thought. Surely between Wikipedia and Google there's a definitive conversion table to be had, or at least some good estimates.
How wrong I was. In retrospect, that conversation with the grocer was really my first encounter with a vast Indian conspiracy to keep the secret of whistles out of the hands of western civilization.
Don't believe me? Try to find something on the subject. You know what you'll get? Nothing from Wikipedia, that's what. And from the documents in Google's index? The runaround.
Sure, there are plenty of people asking the same question as I, but the answers range from buy a pressure cooker that whistles to pressure cookers in India whistle, you know. And this is in response to direct questions, mind you.
The audacity.
Ok, maybe I stumbled on one of the last frontiers of knowledge that the internet has not yet captured. That's an easy problem to solve. I have connections: brilliant, technically-minded friends from India that can fully understand the importance of a unit of measurement. I'll just ask them, and write the Wikipedia entry my own damned self.
And this, dear reader, is what has convinced me that there is a conspiracy. These friends, whom I love like siblings, whose knowledge I consider encyclopedic, and whose intellectual thirst would normally pounce on a mystery like this have all suddenly become mute -- or down-right evasive -- when asked about the mysterious "whistle".
Even the great Praveen "KP" Kallakuri, now working at Google, said he'd ask some people there. Did he? Not until I reminded him, at which point he casually tossed me this link and said it looks like it has the info that I'm looking for.
Yeah, right. Like I can't do a find-in-page for the word "whistle".
I'm on to you. I'm on to you all.
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11 comments:
Pressure Cookers are the best invention ever!!! The pssst tap tap sound is like music to my ears cause I know somethings cookin'.
I have some friends living in India now (www.parkspage.com). I'll email them and let you know what I get back. Love your sense of humor, Pohl - a delightful read!
Your not going to hear anything back. It is a sworn secret.
I think the trick is not to use Google! The venerable folks from Ask conjured up this link: Pressure cookers: Quick, easy way to get great meals to table.
Here's the grim reality. There's a pressure cooker implementation difference. Your pressure cooker cooks with steady pressure. And, as the link above mentions "Elsewhere in the world, the method isn't steady pressure but timed release, and recipes are measured by the whistle."
Hard to come up with a conversion system for a system that works with constant pressure, and one that fluctuates.
The brown deception strikes, again.
I think keerat has it right. My friend in Indian writes, "yes, they do cook based on the number whistles...it is the number of times the pressure is released and it sounds like a very loud whistle. It will be trial and error though because Indian pressure cookers are apparently slightly different from ones made in the US. I'm told you need to learn how to use each type...they all have their quirks I guess." Experiment, Pohl, and let us know how it goes.
Don't close the door on the conspiracy quite yet. Notice how even the ask.com article lacks anything that actually addresses the specific question on the table.
Look, I'm not asking for femtosecond accuracy here. 15PSI is a fairly universal standard, and even the Indian pressure cookers, when they blow off steam, will only do so until it dips just below that threshold -- so it's not going to fluctuate so much that actual measurement becomes useless.
All we need is someone with an Indian pressure cooker and a stopwatch to collect some data. Now if only I knew where to find people from india with a penchant for engineering, measurement, and data collection. Hmmmm...
More problems... pressure cookers, like all kitchen vessels, vary in their composition, volume, the altitude at which the cooking takes place, the reliability and accuracy of the pressure release mechanism and many other things. Remember PV=nRT from Freshman Chemistry? Probably not. Also, the point about a constant pressure vs. a pressure cycle is a good one. Maybe this would be a good figure for Wikipedia: Amplitude and Frequency of the Average Pressure Oscillation in Hyderabad.
Don't even get me started on the effect the volume of water and the salt/starch content will have on pressure and the boiling temperature of the liquid. Remember that as you cook, more solute dissolves in the water, and actually changes its boiling point!
But do not despair! None of this matters. Whistles are supposed to be inherently subjective. Cooking is an art, and recipes are (wonderful) works thereof, not standards. When making pasta the box/bag may say boil 9 minutes. But do you like al dente pasta or mushy spaghetti? Are you cooking angel hair or rigatoni?
Similarly with cookers, if you are canning preserves or cooking urad daal (small lentils) vs chole (garbanzo beans) all the parameters for a successful outcome will be different.
I usually go with about five minutes per whistle. But again, whistles would be faster in frequency at high heat, and slower when turning down the burner as you mention.
Each meal is a new experiment. Fortunately, unless you are designing a grand industrial factory of some sort, there are also many different successful outcomes for the experiment. And if all else fails, add salt.
(PS: Cooking hard chickpeas = not so yummy. Soak them overnight in water. Other lentil diameters are small enough to skip this step. Don't forget to give them a quick wash if they have been talcked.)
All good points, forgotwhoyouare, and thank you for offering a guesstimate of 5 minutes per whistle. That is close to what I'm looking for: a back-of-the-envelope, minute-resolution map.
But actual measurement is still desireable.
I recon that the burner is not turned down in traditional Indian cooking, so that's not something one would need to consider when conducting the measurement. Remember, the point here is to map spring-valve style cooking (measured in minutes after achieving pressure) to jiggle-top style Indian cooking (measured in whistles).
While it's easy to do a lot of handwaving about all of the variables in question, it's all conjecture until we have actual data.
As for the hard chickpeas, I have instructions for cooking with hard beans in a cookbook. As a substitution for soaking hard beans overnight, you can run them through a 20-minute cycle in the pressure cooker before proceeding with the actual cooking. I made a beef & bean stew that turned out wonderful this way. Perhaps a similar trick would work for hard chickpeas?
Thanks for posting!
In case you're worried that I missed your point about art: I desire the measurement not as a substitute for a flexible, artful approach to cooking. Rather, I desire it to inform that approach.
A couple of interesting quotes pulled from the article that keerat linked to...
"Both kinds of cookers promise a steady level of pressure."
"How incredible to dump dried white beans or chickpeas into a pot and serve soup 30 minutes later."
I don't have the Mercedez of pressure cookers, so maybe you should try only 3 or 4 minutes per whistle. My apparatus was purchased at (gasp!) Wal-Mart. But only after BB&B (too large) and Target (none) both failed me.
I speak specifically from experience with hard chickpeas. The canned variety are the softest you will find, and the water from the can adds a nice flavor, but nothing beats the slight crunch of O/N soaked chole. I'm not talking just about soup here.
I soak overnight as my Indian sistern have before me. It is part of the delicious ritual.
Next time I'm cooking with an Indian cooker, I'll take some measurements for you.
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